ADDING COLOR TO TEXTILE MATERIALS

     Dyes - substances that add color to materials by being absorbed
     Pigments - substances that add color to materials on the surface; are not absorbed
Dyeing - a colorant is uniformly distributed within or on the surface of all fibers throughout a yarn or fabric
Printing - a colorant is applied to localized areas on fabric or yarn surfaces; includes the print pattern and the process
 
 

     Stages of dyeing textile materials
     1.  Fiber dyeing - color is added in the fiber state
          Solution dyeing is adding color to the manufactured fiber in the solution stage before it is extruded.
          Solution dyeing is very durable; the color is all way through
          Stock dyeing is adding color to loose fibers by immersing in a dyebath
     FIBER DYEING IS AN EXPENSIVE TYPE OF DYEING.   The manufacturer is taking a chance on the fashions remianing the same throughout the season or longer.
     2.  Yarn dyeing - color added in the yarn stage
            Yarn dyed products are usually the same on both sides such as with plaids and stripes.
            The yarns may be space-dyed - the yarn is immersed in different colors along the length of the yarn.
     3.  Piece dyeing - Most solid color fabrics are piece-dyed.  The fabric is immersed in a dyebath and comes
          out a solid color front and back.
          If a fabric is a blend of fibers that do not take a similar type of dye, dyes are mixed to create a dye that
          will provide a penetrate all fiber types and give a solid color.  This is union dyeing.
          If a fabric is a blend of fibers that do not take a similar type of dye and the desired effect is to have a
          fabric that is more than one color, one dye type is used and the fabric is multi-colored.This is cross dyeing.
          PIECE DYEING IS THE LEAST EXPENSIVE TYPE OF DYEING.

     4.  Product dyeing - the products (garments, sheets,  curtains, etc.) are immersed in a dyebath after the
          product is completely assembled, including trim, labels, seams, etc. Everything must be compatible including trims, labels, thread, etc.  Being able to dye at this stage enables a company to be able to reduce inventory.

Colorfastness is the most common consumer complaint
Colorfastness is the ability of a textile material to retain its color during use and care
Fading - color becomes lighter; cause could be age, light, pollutants, chlorine, water, etc.
Bleeding - color depositing on another material
Migrating - color moviing from one part of the garment to another
Frosting - color loss due to abrasion
Crocking - transfer of color from one material to another by rubbing

Printing - a colorant is applied to localized areas on fabric or yarn surfaces; includes the print pattern and the process

Direct printing - the printed patter is put directly onto the fabric
    Examples of direct printing include:
    Application - colorant is printed onto a white fabric
   Duplex - a fabric is printed on both sides; may be the same design or different
   Overprint - a motif is printed over a dyed fabric.  The overprint motif does not show on the back
  Blotch - both the background and the motif are printed on the fabric; the back is usually white

Processses of direct printing
 1.  Roller printing - usually small designs; designed is engraved into copper rollers.  The dye is held in the engraved portions and rolled over the fabric.  There is a different roller for each color. Only about 25% of the printed fabric is roller printed.
2.  Screen printing - larger designs.  The dye is forced through openings in a screen onto the fabric.  A different screen is used for each color.

Resist printing - the colorant is resisted in certain areas of the fabric by a substance such as a wax, string, etc.
The dye is not deposited where the resist substance is on the fabric.  Examples are batik, tie-dye

Discharge printing - the fabric is dyed a dark solid color and a discharge paste is used to discharge the dye in designated areas.

Heat transfer printing - colorant is applied to a special type of paper.  The colorant vaporizes when it is heated and it redeposits on the fabric.