Dyes - substances that add color to materials
by being absorbed
Pigments - substances that add color to
materials on the surface; are not absorbed
Dyeing - a colorant is uniformly distributed within or on the surface
of all fibers throughout a yarn or fabric
Printing - a colorant is applied to localized areas on fabric or
yarn surfaces; includes the print pattern and the process
Stages of dyeing textile materials
1. Fiber dyeing - color is added
in the fiber state
Solution
dyeing is adding color to the manufactured fiber in the solution stage
before it is extruded.
Solution
dyeing is very durable; the color is all way through
Stock dyeing
is adding color to loose fibers by immersing in a dyebath
FIBER DYEING IS AN EXPENSIVE TYPE OF DYEING.
The manufacturer is taking a chance on the fashions remianing the same
throughout the season or longer.
2. Yarn dyeing - color added in the
yarn stage
Yarn dyed products are usually the same on both sides such as with plaids
and stripes.
The yarns may be space-dyed - the yarn is immersed in different colors
along the length of the yarn.
3. Piece dyeing - Most solid color
fabrics are piece-dyed. The fabric is immersed in a dyebath and comes
out a solid
color front and back.
If a fabric
is a blend of fibers that do not take a similar type of dye, dyes are mixed
to create a dye that
will provide
a penetrate all fiber types and give a solid color. This is union
dyeing.
If a fabric
is a blend of fibers that do not take a similar type of dye and the desired
effect is to have a
fabric that
is more than one color, one dye type is used and the fabric is multi-colored.This
is cross dyeing.
PIECE DYEING
IS THE LEAST EXPENSIVE TYPE OF DYEING.
4. Product dyeing - the products (garments,
sheets, curtains, etc.) are immersed in a dyebath after the
product is
completely assembled, including trim, labels, seams, etc. Everything must
be compatible including trims, labels, thread, etc. Being able to
dye at this stage enables a company to be able to reduce inventory.
Colorfastness is the most common consumer complaint
Colorfastness is the ability of a textile material to retain its
color during use and care
Fading - color becomes lighter; cause could be age, light, pollutants,
chlorine, water, etc.
Bleeding - color depositing on another material
Migrating - color moviing from one part of the garment to another
Frosting - color loss due to abrasion
Crocking - transfer of color from one material to another by rubbing
Printing - a colorant is applied to localized areas on fabric or yarn surfaces; includes the print pattern and the process
Direct printing - the printed patter is put
directly onto the fabric
Examples of direct printing
include:
Application - colorant
is printed onto a white fabric
Duplex - a fabric is printed
on both sides; may be the same design or different
Overprint - a motif is printed
over a dyed fabric. The overprint motif does not show on the back
Blotch - both the background and the
motif are printed on the fabric; the back is usually white
Processses of direct printing
1. Roller printing - usually small
designs; designed is engraved into copper rollers. The dye is held
in the engraved portions and rolled over the fabric. There is a different
roller for each color. Only about 25% of the printed fabric is roller printed.
2. Screen printing - larger designs.
The dye is forced through openings in a screen onto the fabric. A
different screen is used for each color.
Resist printing - the colorant is resisted
in certain areas of the fabric by a substance such as a wax, string, etc.
The dye is not deposited where the resist
substance is on the fabric. Examples are batik, tie-dye
Discharge printing - the fabric is dyed a dark solid color and a discharge paste is used to discharge the dye in designated areas.
Heat transfer printing - colorant is applied to a special type of paper. The colorant vaporizes when it is heated and it redeposits on the fabric.