Finishes are applied to greige goods (materials taken directly off the loom or knitting machine) before they can be used by the consumer.
Finishes enhance the aesthetics, the hand, the texture and/or the performance of the textile material.

Finishes may be:
Mechanical/Thermal (sometimes heat is used if the fiber content of the material contains thermoplastic fibers).
Chemical

Finishes are classified by durability:
Permanent - will last the life of the product
Durable - will last for a specified time or numbe of cleanings
Semi-durable/renewable - the finish may last a short time but can be renewed (such as Scotchgard)
Temporary - lasts only until the product is cleaned

Finishes used in fabric preparation:
1.  Singeing - loose fibers are removed by passing under a gas flame
2.  Desizing - sizing or starch used during process is removed by washing or enzymes
3.  Scouring - used on natural fibers to remove materials left from field or animal
4.  bleaching - any color is removed to make fabric white for dyeing
5.  Mercerization - sometimes  used on cotton to increase luster and strength.  Cotton is immersed in solium hydoroxide causing fibers to swell.  Fibers have a more round cross section

Finishes that affect appearance, hand, and/or texture:
1.  stiffening - starches are added to give body
2.  Parchmentizing - cottons are made permanently stiff by using acid
3.  Weighting - silks are often weighted (see earlier notes on silk) to give body
4.  Softening - reduce harsh hand on fabrics
5.  Calendering - fabrics are passd through rollers under high pressure to smooth the fabric
    -glazing - a type of calendering using a friction calender the produces a glazed or polished surface.  Starch or resin is added .     The most common glazed fabric is CHINTZ.
    embossing - designs are produced by pressing a pattern onto the fabric; it is permanent if heated rollers are used on             thermoplastic fibers.
    moire - fabric has a watered or wood grain appearance by difference in light reflection..  Sometimes done by etching pattern or placing two pieces of fabric at angles off grain and pressing through calender rollers.
    beetling - fabric is pounded with hammers to flatter the yarns and make them smooth.
    napping - fibers are raised on surface of low-twist spun yarns by sandpaper or other rough surface.
    brushing - fibers are raised on surface of spun yarns by use of machine with small teeth
    shearing - rotating blades cut off top of pile
    flocking -   short fibers are "glued" to surface of fabrics by adhesive material
    burn-out - chemicals are used in blended fabrics to dissolve one part of the material and leave other fiber intact
    plisse - puckered effect is achieved by imprinting with chemicals that cause fabric to shrink in some areas and not in othe areas
    enzyme - enzymes are used to make fabric soft

  Functional Finishes
 Fire and Flammability
Flame resistance – the property of a material whereby flaming combustion is  prevented, terminated or inhibited following application of a source of ignition.
Fire and Flammability
The role of textile materials as the source and/or prevention of damage by fire to a person and/or a structure
 

Fire Triangle As defined by the National Fire Protection Association
In order for there to be a fire, three elements must be present:
Oxygen (always present in a normal environment)
Fuel
Heat (materials have a combustion temperature that it must reach before it will burn)

Limiting Oxygen Index (LOI)- amount of oxygen required for a material to burn in air
The normal environment contains 18 - 21% oxygen.
A material must have an LOI of less than 21 to burn in air.
Cellulosics have an LOI of approximately 18, therefore, they will burn easily.
Manufactured fibers and wool have an LOI above 21; therefore, they self-extinguish and do not burn in air.

Clothing
All clothing must meet basic flammability requirements as determined by a standard test method
In 1972 children’s sleepwear was specifically regulated (sizes 0-6x).
In 1975 the act was expanded to include sizes 7-14.
 

Flammable Fabrics Act

Passed in 1953
Banned the use and sale of highly flammable materials for clothing
Amended in 1967
Included carpets, draperies, bedding and upholstery
Textiles and Structure Fires
Textile products as the initial fuel (in order of highest number)
1.  Mattresses/bedding
2.  Upholstered furniture
3.Clothing
4. Curtains/drapes
5. Carpets/rugs

Textile fibers as the initial fuel (in order of highest number)
1. Cellulosics
2. Manufactured fibers
3. Wool
4. Fur/silk

Clothing
All clothing must meet basic flammability requirements as determined by a standard test method
In 1972 children’s sleepwear was specifically regulated (sizes 0-6x).
In 1975 the act was expanded to include sizes 7-14.
In 1999-2000, the act was amended to exclude snug-fitting children's sleepwear.

Structural Fires

 

    A large number of textile-related structural fires are caused by careless use of cigarettes.
     The National Fire Protection Association publishes the Life Safety Codes which list requirements for
     materials in areas of public assembly or residence.

     The codes and standards for materials used in residential structures are much less stringent than for
     commercial/public structures.

     Smoke and gas rather than the actual flame are usually the cause of death for victims of a fire.
     Carbon monoxide (CO) is a deadly gas that is a by-product of combustion.  When CO enters the blood
     stream the person becomes disoriented and unable to escape.

     Smoke and gas rise and fill the highest area first; as the higher areas such as ceilings become filled with
     smoke and gas, the smoke and gas move down until the area is completely filled.
     The temperature rises rapidly; when the temperature is high enough for all materials in the room to ignite,
     flashover occurs.

    Fire burns vertically before it burns horizontally and therefore travels up walls, curtains, etc. quickly.

See other notes under Course Documents.

Waterproof – no water can penetrate the fabric
Accomplished by coating fabric or using microscopic holes that allow water vapor to go through but not water drops
Gore-Tex is one example  http://www.gore.com/ Click here to read more about Gore-Tex

Soil and Stain REPELLENT
Topical finishes that resist penetration by water and oil-based stains, food, dirt
Two examples are Scotchgard and Zepel

Soil RELEASE Finishes
Developed for hydrophobic fibers that absorb and hold soil, particularly oil-based stains
Finishes make the fiber more hydrophilic so the water and detergent can get into the fabric (fibers) and release the soil/stain

Anti-static Finishes
Conditions for static electric charge build-up are cool, dry environment
Manufactured fibers build up static electric charges  because they are hydrophobic and do not allow conduction of electrical charges
Healthy adult human body can tolerate about 5000 volts (5kV)of  electrical charges
In some areas, that is too much for safety
In sensitive areas where there might be life-sustaining equipment or other electronics, the maximum allowable is 3500 v (3.5kV)
In areas where there would life-threatening situations the maximum allowable is 2500 v
Anti-static finishes
Anti-static finishes work by making the material a better conductor of electrical charges
This often means the material must become more absorbent

Anti-bacterial/Anti-microbial
Inhibit the growth of bacteria on materials
Often used in health care products, hotel/restaurant industry, home furnishings, athletic products

Anti mildew/anti-rot
Mold, mildew and fungus will grow on some textile materials when they are in a damp environment.
Cellulosic fibers may be damaged beyond repair
Other fibers are often stained

Sun Protective Finishes
The incidence of skin cancer and melanoma is increasing at an alarming rate worldwide – from 200,000 new cases in 1980 to 1,000,000 new cases in 1997
The sun emits UVA and UVB rays which are harmful to the skin, regardless of skin color
People who suffer sunburns and extended exposure to the sun’s rays often develop skin cancer

Sun Protection - best fabric choices
Fibers – Research has shown that manufactured fibers such as polyester provide the most sun protection
Fabrics – Research has also shown that fabrics with a tight construction (woven rather than knit) and a color, rather than white, provide the most sun protection
Sun Protective Finishes
If a fabric is sold with a rating for sun protection, Sun Protection Factor (SPF), it is regulated under the Consumer Product Safety Commission
Many companies are now selling products with a rating; some are made by using fabric and yarn structures that provide more protection; some use UV absorbers