Knitted fabrics
Be able to identify on a diagram the wales and courses.
Be able to identify on a diagram the difference between a warp and weft knit.
Know how to count the gauge and the stitch density on a diagram.
study the diagrams in your textbook.
     Knit fabrics are composed of intermeshing loops of yarn.

     Terminology
     stitch - each loop is called a stitch
     course - a row of loops across the width of the fabric (perpendicular to selvage)
     wale - a column of loops along the length of the fabric (parallel with selvage)
     gauge - number of stitches per unit length.
     stitch density - number of stitches per unit area (multiply number of courses by number of wales).
     technical face - side where the loops are pulled toward the viewer
     technical back - side where the loops are pulled away from the viewer

     Comparison of knits and woven fabrics.
     -Knit fabrics have higher elasticity than woven fabrics
     -Knit fabrics provide less cover than woven fabrics because of spaces between loops; this depends on the
     yarn structure and the stitch density (see class notes)
     -Knits fabrics are less dimensionally stable (more likely to shrink) in heat and moisure
     -Knit fabrics have better wrinkle resistance and better wrinkle recovery
     -Knits are more easily snagged than woven fabrics.

     Two types of knits:
     Weft knits - loops run crosswise in the fabric
     Warp knits - loops run lengthwise in the fabric

 WEFT KNIT
     Most common weft knits are jersey, rib, purl.

     Stitches used in weft knits (see diagrams in textbook, page 345).
     -Knit or plain stitch - the loop is pulled to the front of the loop above it.
     -Purl stitch - loop is pulled to the back of the loop above it and to the front of the next loops
     -Float stitch - connects two loops of the same course that are not in adjacent wales (page 345).

     Jersey - all loops are the same (knit stitches).  The appearance on technical face is wales and the appearance
     on the technical back is courses (page 336)


  Knit stitches                                        Front(top), Back (bottom)
 

     Jersey knits tend to curl toward the technical face in the course direction.

     Rib  - loops (stitches) alternate from the front to the back of the loop above in the vertical (wale) direction.
     All of the loops in a single wale are the same.  Rib knits have a "vertical stripe" created by the loops being
     on the face and then toward the back.  Rib fabrics are named (1x1, 2x2, etc) by the number of stitches that
     are on the face and then on the back (figure 16.15, page 342).

Rib Knit

     Purl - loops (stitches) alternate from the front to the back in the course direction.  All stitches in a single
     course are the same, the next course is the opposite.(see Figure 16.19 on page 344)
 

     WARP KNITS

     Yarns in warp knits are interlooped lengthwise rather than across the fabric.  Warp knits are resistant to
     runs (ladddering).  The most common warp knit is TRICOT pronounced tree-co. (see diagrams on page 16.23)

     Another type of warp knit is RASCHEL - which gives a lace-like appearance.  Elaborately patterned
     surfaces can be achieved witht he Raschel machine (page 350).