Terminology
stitch - each loop is called a stitch
course - a row of loops across the
width of the fabric (perpendicular to selvage)
wale - a column of loops along the
length of the fabric (parallel with selvage)
gauge - number of stitches per unit
length.
stitch density - number of stitches
per unit area (multiply number of courses by number of wales).
technical face - side where the
loops are pulled toward the viewer
technical back - side where the
loops are pulled away from the viewer
Comparison of knits and woven fabrics.
-Knit fabrics have higher elasticity than
woven fabrics
-Knit fabrics provide less cover than woven
fabrics because of spaces between loops; this depends on the
yarn structure and the stitch density (see
class notes)
-Knits fabrics are less dimensionally stable
(more likely to shrink) in heat and moisure
-Knit fabrics have better wrinkle resistance
and better wrinkle recovery
-Knits are more easily snagged than woven
fabrics.
Two types of knits:
Weft knits - loops run crosswise in the
fabric
Warp knits - loops run lengthwise in the
fabric
WEFT KNIT
Most common weft knits are jersey, rib,
purl.
Stitches used in weft knits (see diagrams
in textbook, page 345).
-Knit or plain stitch - the loop is pulled
to the front of the loop above it.
-Purl stitch - loop is pulled to the back
of the loop above it and to the front of the next loops
-Float stitch - connects two loops of the
same course that are not in adjacent wales (page 345).
Jersey - all loops are the same (knit stitches).
The appearance on technical face is wales and the appearance
on the technical back is courses (page
336)
Knit stitches
Front(top), Back (bottom)
Jersey knits tend to curl toward the technical face in the course direction.
Rib - loops (stitches) alternate from
the front to the back of the loop above in the vertical (wale) direction.
All of the loops in a single wale are the
same. Rib knits have a "vertical stripe" created by the loops being
on the face and then toward the back.
Rib fabrics are named (1x1, 2x2, etc) by the number of stitches that
are on the face and then on the back (figure
16.15, page 342).
Rib Knit
Purl - loops (stitches) alternate from the
front to the back in the course direction. All stitches in a single
course are the same, the next course is
the opposite.(see Figure 16.19 on page 344)
WARP KNITS
Yarns in warp knits are interlooped lengthwise
rather than across the fabric. Warp knits are resistant to
runs (ladddering). The most common
warp knit is TRICOT pronounced tree-co. (see diagrams on page 16.23)
Another type of warp knit is RASCHEL - which
gives a lace-like appearance. Elaborately patterned
surfaces can be achieved witht he Raschel
machine (page 350).