Fabrics -
On diagrams (matching) you will be asked to identify the warp, filling, and bias directions and the selvage.
You will be asked to identify plain weave, plain basket, plain rib, twill (right and left-handed, steepness of angle), satin (warp-faced, filling-faced).
You should be able to give the fabric count for a fabric in a diagram.
     Terminology
     Woven fabrics -constructed by interlacing warp (vertical) and filling (horizontal) yarns at right
     angles.  See Figure (a) at top of page 273.


 
 

Warp - yarns that run in the vertical direction of a woven fabric parallel with the selvage
Filling (weft) - yarns that run in the horizontal direction of a woven fabric

The warp yarns are usually stronger than the filling yarsn; they are put on the loom first (warp beam) and the filling yarns are inserted over and under the warp yarns depending on the weaving pattern

Fabric count - total number of warp and filling yarns in a square inch of fabric (example above would be 12; 6 warp and 6 filling.
     High fabric counts are stronger, smoother, less likely to shrink than low fabric counts.
     Usually there are more warp yarns than filling yarns.
     The warp yarns are usually stronger, have a higher tpi, and a higher count than the filling yarns.

Grain - the intersection of the warp and filling yarns at right angles

Selvage - finished edge of fabrics during weaving process
 
 

The BASIC WEAVES in the woven fabrics are plain, twill and satin.

     Plain Weaves

     Simplest of weaves and most common.  Warp and filling yarns are interlaced in a pattern of over
     one and under one.

     (Graphics made by Melinda Patrick, Ph.D student and Teaching Assistant in Department of Textiles
     and Consumer Sciences)

     Plain weaves are economical to manufacture and produce a durable, smooth fabric.  The face
     and back of the plain weaves are usually the same unless there is some type of coloration method.

     Variations of the plain weave include the rib and the basket.
     Rib fabrics have a heavier filling or a heavier warp than the yarn in the opposite direction.
     (see diagrams on page 274).
     If the rib is prominent, the fabric may be subject to  damage by abrasion, snagging.
The other variation of the plain weave is the basket weave (see  a and b, top of page 275).
     The basket weave uses two or more warp and/or two or more filling yarns side by side as one
     yarn.  The plain basket variation can be a half basket where there are half as many yarns in
     one direction as in the other or a regular basket such as the photograph below.

       4x4 basket weave


 

Depending on the structure, basket weaves may be more subject to damage by abrasion, snagging, yarn
     shifting than plain weaves.

 Twill fabrics are fabrics in which the weave repeats on three or more warp and filling yarns and diagonal lines
     are produced on the face of the fabric.
     Right-handed twill - diagonal lines go from lower left corner to upper right corner
     Left-handed twill - diagonal lines go from lower right corner to upper left corner
     THE DIRECTION OF THE TWILL DIAGONAL HAS NO RELATION TO THE QUALITY OF THE
     FABRIC.

/Right-handed twills
                                                                         Right-handed twill

If the direction of the twill reverses, it is a herringbone.
Refer to your class notes for diagram of twill diagonal.
     Twill diagonal angles near 45o are regular twills.  Regular twills are usually even-sided (same or near same
     warp and filling yarns on face).
     Twill angles that are more vertical are called steep twills.
Steep twills are usually warp-faced which makes  them more durable than reclining twills.
Reclining twill diagonal angles are filling-faced and are usually more subject to abrasion and other types of
     wear because the filling yarns are usually not as durable as the warp yarns. (see your notes on yarns).

     Assuming that the yarns are durable (see notes on yarns) twill fabrics can be even more durable than plain
     weaves. Because there are fewer interlacings, the yarns can be packed closer providing more durability and
     cover.


     Satin Fabrics  are fabrics in which the warp (or filling) yarn floats over two or more yarns in the
     opposite direction, creating a smooth, lustrous effect on the face side.  If the yarns are filament, the fabric is
     highly lustrous.

     Satin fabrics are known for aesthetics but not for durability.  Fewer interlacings often allow for the yarns to
     be packed close together, the long floats are easily abraded and snagged.
     Warp-faced satins (typically called satin) have the floats in the warp direction.
     Filling-faced satins (typically called sateen) have the floats in the filling direction.
 

Warp-faced satin

  Filling-faced satin (usually called sateen)


Pile woven fabrics have an extra set of yarns (warp or filling) woven into the ground or base fabric
     that stand vertically on the surface of the fabric.
     Pile fabrics have a pile sweep, sometimes called a nap.  In the finishing of the fabric after weaving, the
     fabrics are usually brushed and then do not stand vertically at a right angle to the base fabric.  As a result,
     the fabric appears darker when you look directly into the pile, and lighter in the other direction.  Pile fabrics
     must always be placed the same direction when curring and sewing the pile fabric.

     Advantages of pile fabrics
     -provide good thermal insulation (dead air spaces between yarns above base fabric)
     -good cover
     -soft hand
     -soft visual texture
 

     Pile fabrics are made by incorporating either extra warp or extra filling yarns.

     Warp-pile fabrics have an extra set of warp yarns that wrap around base filling yarns in the weaving process.

     Velvet and terrycloth are two examples of warp pile fabrics.

     Filling pile fabrics have an extra set of filling yarns that wrap around the base warp yarns in the weaving
     process.  Velveteen and corduroy are examples of filling pile fabrics.    In corduroy the pile is cut in wales.

Pile fabrics have a nap or pile sweep that causes the light to be reflected differently depending on whether you are looking directly into the pile or looking at the direction where the most light is reflected.
 

Leno Fabrics are fabrics in which warp yarns have been made to cross one another, between fillings,
     during leno weaving.  The warp yarns form a figure 8 around the filling yarns.
     Leno fabrics are open structures; the warp wrapping around the filling yarns help to stabilize the filling yarns
     and reduces yarn slippage.
 

     FABRICS WITH DESIGN WOVEN IN THE STRUCTURE

     Refer to your notes for diagrams and more information.

     Jacquard fabrics produced on a Jacquard looom have a design woven in the fabric.   The Jacquard
     fabric has at least two of the basic weave structures.  Typically, different colored (or the same color) yarns
     form an intricate design; some have flowers and/or animals, some are like pictures, some tell stories.   The
     Jacquard designs are usually larger than dobby  designs.
 
 
 

Dobby fabrics  are fabrics are a variation of a Jacquard weave with small woven-in designs.  They
     are often geometric but may be of other designs.

     Pique fabrics have soft raised surfaces that are made by using stuffer yarns or a variation of the plain
     weave.

     Spot weave fabrics have a design woven in using extra yarns at a particular spot and the figures are
     connected on the back by yarns (usually in the filling)/  These connecting yarns may be cut or uncut.

     Double-weave fabrics have three or more sets of yarns that make a fabric that is in
     layers.  Some layers can be separated, some are woven together.